Golf 1 brakes: hoses, pipes and ancillary parts

Often neglected, the complete braking system of a Golf 1 deserves all your attention. Hoses, pipes, master cylinder or pressure regulator: every part plays a key role in guaranteeing safe and effective braking, even on an old car.

27/01/2026

Harald

5 minutes read

Volkswagen

Volkswagen Golf 1

On a Golf 1 as on any car in general, good braking is not achieved just by looking at the visible wear parts. The rest of the parts that supposedly "never get changed" are just as important to check.

Golf 1 brake hoses

The Golf 1 is fitted with 4 brake hoses: 2 long ones at the front and 2 short ones at the rear. There are generally two types of flexible brake hose.

Original hoses

The original-equivalent brake hoses for Golf 1 are made of fabric-reinforced polymers (described as vulcanised rubber hoses); they are sold individually and are inexpensive.

So-called "aviation" hoses

Reinforced hoses originally used in aeronautics, a guarantee of reliability and high standards. Used in competition, the aviation brake hose is a Teflon (PTFE) sheath covered with a stainless steel braid that resists corrosion and fire.

Hoses of this type, like those from Goodridge, are sold in kits of 4 or 6, to equip a whole car.

Tip: change your hoses in pairs on the same axle.

When should you change your brake hoses?

A brake hose is like an artery, it can clog up little by little, it can swell until it bulges and bursts. You notice it on cars that have stood for a long time, it is said to "gum up", its internal diameter shrinks and prevents the fluid from flowing normally.
A scrape with a branch or an object on your route can create a weakness in the hose (surface cut), or even puncture it.
The little animal called the stone marten (cousin of the weasel) likes to gnaw rubber bases and electrical wires … there are repellent sprays (ventif) if you live in the countryside.

Rigid pipes or brake lines on the Golf 1

A pipe, however rigid it is, can be damaged (badly placed jack, pinched line) or corrode, especially at the threaded fittings, which have often been undone many times on an old vehicle. Brake fluid is corrosive and damages metals.

There are complete rigid line kits for Golf 1, very handy during a restoration to start again from a good base. You can also buy rigid brake pipes individually or make them yourself to the dimension you want. You will then need to equip yourself with copper brake pipe, ends, male or female fittings and above all a flaring tool, or even a mini pipe bender.

Did you know? Be careful if you are working on the underside of your Golf, do not paint or underseal your rigid brake lines. It is a fail item at the contrôle technique (the French roadworthiness test), these pipes must remain checkable by the naked eye, paint or a coating would hide them.

The brake master cylinder on the Golf 1

Golf 1s are all fitted with a dual-circuit master cylinder, also called a tandem master cylinder.

Most often, the Golf 1 master cylinders that you will find as aftermarket parts are delivered "bare"; the inlet fittings, the Golf 1 brake light switches and the blue low-pressure hose have to be taken from your old part or ordered separately from us.

Later Golf 1 cabriolets use a master cylinder (and a brake servo) of larger diameter to compensate for the extra weight of the Karmann kits with big bumpers.

The rear brake pressure regulator for the Golf 1

The brake pressure regulator for the Golf 1, also called a brake compensator, acts as a pressure regulator on the rear brakes. It distributes an appropriate force to the rear drums during the forward weight transfer (essential on Caddys used as commercial vehicles).

It prevents the rear wheels from locking under hard braking with weight transferred forward.

Not all Golf 1s are fitted with a brake pressure regulator; easy to check, it is located ahead of the left rear wheel.

See our exclusive MECATECHNIC remanufactured part: The rear brake pressure regulator for the Golf 1

How to tell there is a problem with your Golf 1's brakes?

Braking becomes less effective and the pedal goes down further than usual.
You have to pump the brake pedal for it to become firm again as it normally is.
It takes you longer to stop, the braking distance gets longer.
You notice a patch of fluid on the ground ; its position will point you to the source of the leak. Near a wheel, it is probably a hose, a rear wheel cylinder or a leak from a front caliper. Between the front wheels, on the driver's side, the master cylinder and its fittings need checking. Elsewhere, a rigid line may be faulty. Follow the drip and retrace its path backwards.
The brake fluid level has dropped in its reservoir? There is abnormal consumption in this closed circuit (leak).
Any odd noise heard when braking can alert you to a consumable that has reached the end of its life. The most common is the metal-on-metal scraping you hear when a lining is completely worn (front pads, rear shoes).

Harald

Le partage de la Passion, simplement.

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