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The number of points follows the same logic: two points for a central rear seat, three points for full support of the torso and pelvis, and four points or more for sporting use.
The anchor points are just as important as the strap: check the condition of the metal around the attachment points, which is often corroded on an older vehicle, and replace the bolts rather than reusing them.
Fitting seatbelts to a vehicle that was originally supplied without them is common practice, and it is theanchor point that does all the work, not the belt itself. A strap secured to a single sheet of metal will tear away at the first impact, taking a section of the floor panel with it.
A correct anchor point requires a load-distribution plate on either side of the sheet metal, a point that is attached to a structural member rather than a formed sheet, and fasteners of the strength class specified for this purpose. Many classic cars already have reinforcements embedded in the bodywork, fitted during production to accommodate optional equipment: identifying these prevents you from drilling in the wrong place. The positioning of the anchor points and their strength are also subject to regulations: check the current legislation before drilling, and have the installation inspected if you have any doubts.
On a classic car, the colour of the seatbelt is just as much a part of compliance as the upholstery. Manufacturers fitted seatbelts to match the interior, and a black seatbelt against a light-coloured dashboard and trim stands out immediately.
Also check that the overall look is consistent: it is better to replace all the seatbelts in the same row at once rather than just one, as two seatbelts of slightly different shades will never blend in. And if you are fitting seatbelts to a vehicle that did not originally have them, choosing a neutral shade will age better than a bright colour, which makes the fitment look dated.