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The brake booster requires a constant vacuum to amplify the force applied by the foot. Where this vacuum comes from depends on the engine.
A pedal that has become hard to press means that the power assistance is no longer coming through. This does not necessarily mean that the brake booster is faulty.
It is only after ruling out these three causes that the brake booster itself becomes a suspect.
The vacuum hose is not an ordinary hose: it is reinforced to resist crushing, and is often moulded with its bends and valve connection. A fuel hose fitted in its place will flatten during use and eliminate the power assistance in exactly the same way as a leak.
The non-return valve has a specific direction of fit: it allows air to flow from the brake booster to the manifold, and not the other way round. If fitted the wrong way round, it will immediately cut off all power assistance. Check the arrow or blow into it before fitting. Take the opportunity whilst replacing it to check the valve base seal on the brake booster, which also hardens over time, and to ensure that the hose is not rubbing against any hot components.
If the vacuum circuit is in good working order and there is still a lack of power, the brake booster is at fault, most often due to its diaphragm. Another tell-tale sign: brake fluid in the brake booster, visible when the master cylinder is removed, indicates that the master cylinder’s seal is leaking and has damaged the diaphragm. Replacing the brake booster without addressing the master cylinder simply means you’ll have to do the job all over again.
To order a replacement, note down the diameter of the brake booster, the number of diaphragms (single or double), and the length of the push rod. Finally, check the condition of the underbody panel to which it is attached: this area is often corroded, and a new brake booster fitted to a worn underbody panel will not operate correctly.

Consult the details of the engine variants, chassis and versions offered for this model