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Three different parts, three different symptoms: knowing which one is the problem prevents you from ordering the wrong part.
Before ordering, also check the drainage holes at the bottom of the door: if blocked, they cause the water level in the sash to rise and produce the same marks as a faulty window wiper.
Two ways to buy, which do not yield the same result. The pre-formed piece, designed specifically for installation, comes complete with its corners, clips or retaining strip, and finished ends. It is fitted to match the original, and this is the choice for a faithful restoration.
The universal profile, sold by the metre and cut to size, is a stopgap solution when the dedicated part is no longer available, which is often the case with rare fittings. You must then select the profile by carefully noting the dimensions: the width of the groove that clips onto the sheet metal, the height of the lip, and whether or not it has a flocked finish. A lip that is too long will restrict the window’s movement and put strain on the window regulator, whilst a groove that is too wide will not hold the window in place.
A window seal has a lip, and this lip has a specific orientation. When fitted facing outwards, it directs water away from the window and drains it downwards. If fitted the wrong way round, it channels water into the window frame, and replacing it will actually make the problem it was meant to solve worse.
When fitting, clean the metal panel and check that it hasn’t been warped by previous removals: a new seal on a corrugated panel will gape in places. Work from one end to the other without stretching the seal, otherwise it will shrink afterwards and leave a gap at the corner. A little soapy water makes it easier to fit the seal. Finally, slide the window pane up and down several times before refitting the seal, to check that it does not catch anywhere.

Consult the details of the engine variants, chassis and versions offered for this model