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They are addressed using different materials and are almost always confused with one another.
In practice, an effective solution combines both: a dense layer against the sheet metal, with an insulating layer on top. The order matters: if reversed, the result is poor in both respects.
Under the bonnet, the material must withstand continuous high temperatures, must not become saturated with oil or fuel, and must not spread flames. Cabin insulation fitted there becomes saturated with oil within a season and poses a risk.
Engine compartment panels are therefore treated for this purpose, with a resistant surface and fastened using clips rather than adhesive. These clips break when the panel is removed and are systematically replaced: a panel held by two out of six clips will eventually come into contact with a hot component. Also check that it does not block any air intakes, particularly on an air-cooled engine, where the air-guiding panels form part of the cooling system.
The second application, equally common in the range, is the campervan, where the focus is no longer on driving comfort but on spending the night whilst stationary. Multi-layered cabin insulation is fitted to the windows – which are the weakest point in a van’s thermal performance – and removed during the day.
For the walls, cut-to-size foam sheets allow you to follow the contours of the bodywork without complicated installation. Choose closed-cell foam: open-cell foam absorbs condensation and never releases it completely.
Insulation fitted onto sheet metal that is not perfectly sound and dry accelerates corrosion rather than slowing it down: it traps moisture in contact with the steel, shielded from the air and out of sight. This is why you sometimes find floors riddled with holes beneath spotless carpets.

Consult the details of the engine variants, chassis and versions offered for this model