Body side molding trim for BMW Série 2 - E10

Chrome, anodised, black: three finishes that age differently

• Chrome, applied to a metal substrate, gives the cool, deep shine of high-end finishes. It is durable, but once pitted, the damage is irreversible: the pit originates from the substrate, beneath the coating.
• Anodised aluminium is a surface treatment applied to the aluminium itself, resulting in a matt finish with a slight bluish tinge. It is the finish used on many door trims and wing mouldings. It tarnishes over time but can be partially restored by gentle polishing, provided the anodised layer is not penetrated, as it cannot be regenerated.
• Black, whether satin or gloss, is typical of later finishes and sports versions. It is also the material that fades the most in the sun.

Mixing two finishes on the same vehicle is immediately noticeable, and this is the most common mistake when replacing a single trim strip.

Where to find these parts

• The side sill moulding, which is most exposed to splashes and salt. This is the part that needs replacing most often, and it is sold per side.
• The horizontaldoor moulding, which protects against door knocks and accentuates the car’s lines. It is available in upper or centre versions depending on the model.
• The bumper trims and strips, which cover the joint and absorb impacts when parking.
• The roof gutters, which are not merely decorative: they channel water away and conceal the roof panel welds.
• Wheel trims and headlight, wing or surroundcovers, which complete the look.

Most of these parts are asymmetrical and are sold per side: make a note of this before ordering, as the side is always counted from the driver’s side.

The clip determines the result

A trim strip is almost never screwed on: it clips onto clips or crimped tabs, sometimes onto glued studs. These clips are made of plastic or spring steel; they are thirty or forty years old, and in almost all cases they break when removed.

Fitting a new trim strip onto worn clips results in a part that vibrates, whistles at a steady speed and eventually comes loose on the motorway. Make sure to fit new clips with the trim strip, and check the condition of the holes in the bodywork where they are fitted: enlarged by repeated removal, they no longer hold anything in place, and you will then need either an oversized clip or bodywork repairs. Finally, make the most of the removal process to treat the panel underneath: this is an area that’s constantly damp, and corrosion always starts from the inside.

Removing the trim without damaging the paintwork

It is when you remove a trim strip that you damage the paintwork, not when you fit it. Use a flat, wide plastic tool, which distributes the force, and never a screwdriver, which concentrates all the pressure on a single point.

Pull perpendicular to the bodywork, clip by clip, starting from one end, and apply gentle heat if the trim is stuck. For double-sided adhesive fittings, let a suitable solvent take effect rather than forcing it off: the adhesive strips away the paintwork before coming away. Finally, clean the area thoroughly before refitting, without using silicone, and check the alignment along the entire length before pressing down the last clip.